In the wake of diamond producer De Beers’ recent profits, an article in Finance Asia states that even a recession will not impact the growth of the global luxury market.

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The research company CLSA predicts that whilst the rest of the world is tightening its purse strings, the global luxury market will increase by 8% during 2012, largely driven by the appetite of the Chinese for luxury items – where it is predicted to grow by 25% by the end of the year.

“We think that the demand for luxury goods in China and Asia is driven by the rise of the middle class, and that is a structural story,” Aaron Fischer, Asia-Pacific head of consumer and gaming research at CLSA, told FinanceAsia in a telephone interview last week.

Fischer added that even if the economic slowdown were to impact the Chinese market directly, this would have no impact on their consumption of luxury goods.

Fischer’s team carried out this analysis based on the Japanese market, which in the past experienced a very similar explosion of luxury goods consumption. However, it acknowledged that the Chinese market has far more room for growth due to the increased number of outbound Chinese tourists travelling to luxury European hotspots like Paris, London and Milan.

Hong Kong has attracted multiple IPOs from Prada and Samsonite amongst other international luxury brands, all attracted by the successful Chinese growth story. But not all Chinese are welcoming the increased presence of luxury brands in their country, as it does highlight the growing income gap between rich and poor. Reportedly, Beijing has put in place controls around luxury advertising, asking companies to remove words such as “luxury,” or royal from their marketing materials.

Yet there’s no doubt that China is still one of the strongest markets in terms of demand for luxury goods – with Latin America, the Middle East and other emerging markets following not far behind.

“I don’t want to rule out Latin America and the Middle East. They are attractive markets as well,” Fischer said. “And over time there’ll be more opportunity in India and Indonesia, and some other Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam.”

The Evening Standard reported recently that luxury brands are set to benefit from a series of notable events taking place in London this year. From the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee to the biggest sporting occasion of 2012, notable high net worth retailers such as Burberry, Walpole and Selfridges are all hoping to see sales increase as they take part.

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Luxury department stores Harrods and Selfridges are also gearing up for increased footfall from the influx of international visitors expected in London around that time.

Walpole, the body created to promote the British luxury industry, will hold a Jubilee Pageant along the Thames and is joining forces with the Queen’s bank Coutts and Getty, the photography agency, to host an exhibition of photos with the Queen – some of which have never been seen in public before. The exhibition will move around London, stopping at suitably luxury venues including Claridge’s in Mayfair.

Stacey Cartwright, Burberry’s finance director, said: “Due to our heritage anything that celebrates Britain is good for us. The jubilee will be a key time in the UK this year.”

Previous blog posts have discussed the cachet of luxury British brands abroad; with the world’s eyes upon London during this key time, UK luxury retailers look set to profit from the celebrations.

A recent article in the Financial Times describes an evolution that Chinese consumers are undergoing. As the country begins to encourage domestic spending, attracting consumers at home has become a priority for retailers – who are finding that their own consumers are some of the most difficult to please.

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And it’s not just within the luxury sector, when consumers are buying big-ticket items such as handbags and cars. Food, electronics, gadgets and homeware are all being scrutinized with an increasingly eagle eye.

Tesco, the UK retailer, says the Chinese middle class is “becoming increasingly sophisticated in the quality of products they purchase”, including buying more foreign and high-end brands.

The Chinese appetite for fake goods seems to be diminishing, too. Escada, the women’s designer clothing group conducted a survey which found that Chinese consumer willingness to buy fakes has diminished, from 31% in 2008 to 12% by 2010.

Despite an appetite for luxury carrier bags in the past, as salaries increase and tastes become more cultured, a cheaply-made item with a designer logo is no longer good enough. The middle class is attracted to provenance, to an appreciation of quality, to the story or time invested behind the product.

Within Janusian thinking, this posits the Chinese as moving towards the Lambda mindset – seeing an item’s value not in terms of price, but rather, in terms of craftsmanship. They’re interested in the time that it took to make – whether it’s unique, and overall the quality of the item – rather being attracted to the glitz of a fake logo.

A recent article in Marketing Week describes how the luxury goods sector, as one of the few within general retail that has endured the muted financial environment, is marketing itself to its customers. Brands such as LVMH continue to post excellent profits and consider their outlook for 2012 as “excellent” whilst ordinary high street retailers struggle.

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As a result, more and more brands are reaching upwards to try and appeal to these high net worth consumers. But some marketers claim that there’s no secret formula to attracting the attention of luxury purchasers – and that tried and tested is the best way forward.

Peter Cross, business partner of Mary Portas at the retail branding agency Yellow Door comments that while luxury purchasers are now more open to value purchases and more discerning of what they actually buy, traditional luxury marketing is still very much at the fore.

“True luxury is still based on exclusivity, rarity and scarcity,” he says.

By making their most valuable customers feel special and singled out – for example, through special “gifts” that may not be available to other consumers – marketers are able to generate emotions of goodwill, rarity and exclusivity – as well as word of mouth from their customers.

Looking at this from the point of view of Janusian thinking, it could be argued that this classic “exclusivity, rarity and scarcity” tactic will affect one type of Janusian personality differently to another.

Lambdas, who seek achievement and uniqueness as an ultimate end goal, are likely to be very influenced by an individual, personalised gift or product as this will help them to stand out against the crowd – a key goal for Lambdas. Thetas, on the other hand, who generally seek acceptance into their social crowd, may find this technique attractive as it will help to establish themselves within their specific social class.

Within luxury marketing, one size does not fit all and marketers must remember that overarching “rules” may not suit every brand when considering a tailored strategy.

An article in Luxury Daily reveals that Stella McCartney has debuted its first fragrance in nearly ten years, L.I.L.Y, via a mobile application and partnership with retail department store Selfridges. Using augmented reality app Aurasma, consumers will be able to access content related to the new perfume – and Selfridges has also provided iPads instore for those shoppers that don’t have smartphones or iPads to access it. The department store will also have interactive windows featuring a film by British artist Dan Tobin Smith where shoppers will be able to “edit” the film themselves by moving around.

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The campaign is also geo-targeted – through the fragrance’s Facebook page, consumers can check in to Selfridges on Foursquare to win exclusive prizes and “like” the page to win free samples. Then, when these customers are actually in-store, they can use the app on their smartphones or the provided iPads to activate a 3D display of a behind-the-scenes video or a large animation of the L.I.L.Y bottle.

Aurasma technology appears to be the latest means of multichannel for luxury brands to connect with their consumers. Net-A-Porter used the app to promote its new Karl by Karl Lagerfeld collection, where consumers could interact with window displays in New York.

Emmet Shine, founder and president of Gin Lane Media, New York which created the campaign commented: “Real 360 degrees is being in the hands of a user anywhere at any time, in person, to online to a combination of both.”

Tapping into customers’ emotions by making them “part of the story” as with the brand interaction through store windows is key. I have argued previously that luxury marketers must focus on the human characteristics that drive consumers. By a simple characterization of consumers into two personality types – Theta and Lambda, marketers will better understand how consumers behave according to their values, unconscious motives, and desires.

A recent article in the Financial Times discusses how Western retailers are attempting to capitalise on the Chinese love affair with luxury and woo high net worth consumers from that region.

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To coincide with the Chinese New Year, Affinity China, a luxury club for the wealthy Chinese organised a tour of New York where several brands “hosted” their high net worth visitors – among them Mont Blanc, the pen maker, which treated the shoppers instore to a recital by Lang Lang, the Chinese pianist.

These kinds of tailored experiences are just one of the ways that upscale Western brands are trying create and nurture relationships with affluent Chinese shoppers – and are discovering where the differences in these consumers’ attitudes lie.

Even when luxury stores accommodate Chinese shoppers by hiring Mandarin speaking staff and accepting the China UnionPay credit card, there are still contrasts. China engenders a “natural distrust” of overeager sales associates and many of the rich guard their privacy carefully – meaning that the cosy relationship Western luxury brands try to initiate with their most affluent customers is not a viable route.

Furthermore, as the desire for more flashy means of demonstrating their wealth recedes, there are many Chinese millionaires who are now interested in the provenance of their goods – or rather, what justifies the high price tag attached to them.

As per previous posts on this blog around the Lambda / Theta distinction of luxury shoppers, these kinds of Chinese consumers could be classed as Lambda – who see the item’s value not in terms of price, but rather, in terms of craftsmanship.

Victor Luis, president of Coach’s international business comments of these shoppers: “They are interested in understanding the history of the product, how it’s made, the quality, how to take care of the leather. ”

An interesting article in the Financial Times described the rate at which the luxury men’s market has expanded of late – to the point where it is beginning to outperform the women’s luxury market. According to the 10^thedition of Bain & Company’s luxury goods worldwide market study, men’s items now make up half of the luxury market – in no small part down to the appetite of male consumers from emerging markets like Asia, and particularly China.

Men's luxury lifestyle emporium Heartless

 “In Asia, the development of men’s wear is extremely rapid, and in China we expect an organic growth close to 20 per cent for most of the European luxury names,” says Thomas Mesmin, a luxury goods analyst at CA Cheuvreux.

But it’s not just emerging markets that are seeing the of explosion of the luxury men’s market. Globally speaking, theUSbrand Coach has seen its men’s business double over the last year, and eventually men’s sales are expected to make up 15% or more of their total sales.

Hermes reports similarly spectacular expansion in its men’s categories. Meanwhile, major retailers and department stores are making plans to create exclusive areas for men’s luxury accessories and footwear – including Harrods and French retailer Printemps.

Alexis Morout, COO of footwear designer Christian Louboutin, has similarly positive projections for the future growth of their men’s business, commenting: “The men’s business represents today less than 5 per cent of our overall business, but could easily become 15 to 20 per cent in the near future.”

The Bain & Company study also reported that the luxury market continues to perform strongly in all categories, with apparel experiencing 8% growth in 2011, driven by both menswear (9%) and womenswear (7%).

With plans to trial men’s only concept stores by Gucci and Bottega Veneta in China, it will be interesting to see if this is a long-term evolution in consumers’ buying behaviour or if it remains a buying trend more exclusive to emerging markets.

What do high net worth individuals look for in their goods? A recent study from the Luxury Institute has identified what attributes of luxury products affluent consumers value the most. Analysing wealthy consumers from across the globe with a minimum annual income of $150,000, the study found that the top attributes that they value are superior quality (73%), followed by craftsmanship (65%) and design (54%.)

Customer service is a key brand attribute that was cited by 47% of correspondents – and interestingly, one of the most important to Chinese consumers who cite it as a one of the main considerations. However, it’s also one that US consumers feel has deteriorated in recent years (34%,) alongside craftsmanship (17%.)

In China, however, satisfaction levels remain high. In the world’s most rapidly growing luxury market, 63% of affluent consumers say that customer service has improved and the vast majority applaud higher quality, craftsmanship and design.

Previously on this blog, entries have explored the success of those brands that tap into their customers’ emotions, providing a positive experience and remaining relevant to their contemporary customer through multichannel platforms such as social media.

At Janus Thinking, consumers are characterized into two different groups – or world views – Lambda and Theta, which explain how our different personality types influence our choice and perception of luxury.

The Lambda personality will see an item’s value not in terms of price, but rather, in terms of craftsmanship. If the item has taken a long time to make, is unique or has a story behind the item’s creation then it is more likely to be valued by a Lambda. On the other hand, if the item is attractive, and something that’s likely to establish them within their preferred social class, it will be valued by a Theta.

While the luxury industry identifies what attributes customers value in their goods, it is a good time for brands and retailers to understand how consumers’ core differences can assign different values to luxury items.

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A recent article in the Sunday Times writes that manufacturing is on the rise in the UK, particularly when it comes to the creation of luxury goods. It reports that a number of high-end fashion houses are using not only British materials to create these goods but are also using UK factories to manufacture them.

British success story Burberry hand-makes its trench coasts in Castleford, Yorkshire. Pringle, the Scottish knitwear retailer, creates its goods in a factory in Hawick, Scotland. And it’s not just UK brands that are sourcing and manufacturing in the British Isles – even the European and American fashion houses such as Chanel, Prada and Ralph Lauren manufacture their own cashmere, tweeds and shoes in the UK.

As provenance becomes less of a marketing term and more of an intrinsic demand for affluent consumers, the appeal of manufacture in the UK becomes obvious. Buying a British-made product is seen as akin to buying a quality investment piece, with lasting appeal.

Says James Eden, managing director of English outerwear brand Cooper & Stollbrand: “People want more understated, credible garments that are steeped in authenticity.”

Sustainability is also a key factor of “buying British.” There are no ethical concerns for either manufacturers or consumers around UK labour laws as with lesser economically developed countries; all goods are created under EU labour directives. And of course, the amount fashion miles within the supply chain are significantly reduced compared to manufacture in the Far East.

There are a number of factors that influence consumers’ buying choices – at Janus Thinking, these consumers are separated into two categories; Lambda and Theta.

For a Lambda, the provenance of British goods would be the key attraction – knowing that they are purchasing a product with an impressive history embedded within it. For a Theta, the appeal would come from the high-end brand and the well-known cachet of “buying British” amongst their social group.

All of this would mean little without significant demand for products that are “Made in Britain;” however – Burberry’s recent financial results indicate that their appeal is not only widespread, but looks likely to continue.

A recent article in the Wall Street Journal wrote that Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods group, has reported third-quarter sales of €2.6 billion ($3.3 billion) – in no small part down to its Asian, and in particular Chinese customers.

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The Asia-Pacific region cemented Richemont’s position as one of Europe’s most important luxury manufacturers, with results of €1.05 billion, 36% up from the previous year. However, it is not only the domestic Chinese market that is prompting such strong profits. Sales in Europe also rose 16% to €914 million as Chinese tourists are purchasing the group’s goods – with items such as Cartier jewellery and Jaeger-Le Coultre watches finding favour – whilst visiting European cities such as Paris, Rome and Geneva.

Bernard Fornas, chief executive of Richemont’s Cartier brand commented: “The number of Chinese tourists is growing… and will help to “cushion the landing” in case things get worse in Europe’s economy.” 

As previously discussed, South-East Asian demand for luxury looks set to continue. Sparkle Roll Trading Development, a distributor of luxury goods in China, has five boutiques in Beijing and Shanghai selling Richard Mille and Parmigiani watches – with the average Parmigiani watch costing around 68,000 Swiss francs ($71,882).

“Sales are really good at the moment. At one of our boutiques we sold 60 watches in one month,” commented Mr. Firth, Sparkle Roll’s Chinese Marketing Director. By comparison, their stores in Europe sell on average five or six watches a month.

The year 2012 – which in Chinese horoscopes is the Year of the Dragon – is also affecting luxury sales. Chinese New Year is on January 23, with the emblem of the dragon being symptomatic of wealth, royalty and nobility. To celebrate this, independent watchmaker Parmigiani has created a dragon clockwork automaton crafted of white gold, imperial green jade, rubies, sapphires and a diamond.

At Janus Thinking consumers are characterized into two different groups – or world views – of Lambda and Theta, which explain how different personality types influence our choice of luxury.

The Parmigiani automaton might appeal to Lambda consumers due to the level of its craftsmanship, its uniqueness, and the fact that it there is a meaningful story behind its creation – rather than because of its price.

Theta consumers, however, will be attracted to such an item as it is a one of a kind, high-end design, and its high price helps to establish them within their preferred social class. Thetas seek acceptance, and their purchases reflect that.

Priced at 3.5 million Swiss francs ($3.7 million,) regardless of whether Theta or Lambda, its purchaser will no doubt have a strong affinity with the symbolic dragon.