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And it’s not just within the luxury sector, when consumers are buying big-ticket items such as handbags and cars. Food, electronics, gadgets and homeware are all being scrutinized with an increasingly eagle eye.

Tesco, the UK retailer, says the Chinese middle class is “becoming increasingly sophisticated in the quality of products they purchase”, including buying more foreign and high-end brands.

The Chinese appetite for fake goods seems to be diminishing, too. Escada, the women’s designer clothing group conducted a survey which found that Chinese consumer willingness to buy fakes has diminished, from 31% in 2008 to 12% by 2010.

Despite an appetite for luxury carrier bags in the past, as salaries increase and tastes become more cultured, a cheaply-made item with a designer logo is no longer good enough. The middle class is attracted to provenance, to an appreciation of quality, to the story or time invested behind the product.

Within Janusian thinking, this posits the Chinese as moving towards the Lambda mindset – seeing an item’s value not in terms of price, but rather, in terms of craftsmanship. They’re interested in the time that it took to make – whether it’s unique, and overall the quality of the item – rather being attracted to the glitz of a fake logo.

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As a result, more and more brands are reaching upwards to try and appeal to these high net worth consumers. But some marketers claim that there’s no secret formula to attracting the attention of luxury purchasers – and that tried and tested is the best way forward.

Peter Cross, business partner of Mary Portas at the retail branding agency Yellow Door comments that while luxury purchasers are now more open to value purchases and more discerning of what they actually buy, traditional luxury marketing is still very much at the fore.

“True luxury is still based on exclusivity, rarity and scarcity,” he says.

By making their most valuable customers feel special and singled out – for example, through special “gifts” that may not be available to other consumers – marketers are able to generate emotions of goodwill, rarity and exclusivity – as well as word of mouth from their customers.

Looking at this from the point of view of Janusian thinking, it could be argued that this classic “exclusivity, rarity and scarcity” tactic will affect one type of Janusian personality differently to another.

Lambdas, who seek achievement and uniqueness as an ultimate end goal, are likely to be very influenced by an individual, personalised gift or product as this will help them to stand out against the crowd – a key goal for Lambdas. Thetas, on the other hand, who generally seek acceptance into their social crowd, may find this technique attractive as it will help to establish themselves within their specific social class.

Within luxury marketing, one size does not fit all and marketers must remember that overarching “rules” may not suit every brand when considering a tailored strategy.

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The campaign is also geo-targeted – through the fragrance’s Facebook page, consumers can check in to Selfridges on Foursquare to win exclusive prizes and “like” the page to win free samples. Then, when these customers are actually in-store, they can use the app on their smartphones or the provided iPads to activate a 3D display of a behind-the-scenes video or a large animation of the L.I.L.Y bottle.

Aurasma technology appears to be the latest means of multichannel for luxury brands to connect with their consumers. Net-A-Porter used the app to promote its new Karl by Karl Lagerfeld collection, where consumers could interact with window displays in New York.

Emmet Shine, founder and president of Gin Lane Media, New York which created the campaign commented: “Real 360 degrees is being in the hands of a user anywhere at any time, in person, to online to a combination of both.”

Tapping into customers’ emotions by making them “part of the story” as with the brand interaction through store windows is key. I have argued previously that luxury marketers must focus on the human characteristics that drive consumers. By a simple characterization of consumers into two personality types – Theta and Lambda, marketers will better understand how consumers behave according to their values, unconscious motives, and desires.

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To coincide with the Chinese New Year, Affinity China, a luxury club for the wealthy Chinese organised a tour of New York where several brands “hosted” their high net worth visitors – among them Mont Blanc, the pen maker, which treated the shoppers instore to a recital by Lang Lang, the Chinese pianist.

These kinds of tailored experiences are just one of the ways that upscale Western brands are trying create and nurture relationships with affluent Chinese shoppers – and are discovering where the differences in these consumers’ attitudes lie.

Even when luxury stores accommodate Chinese shoppers by hiring Mandarin speaking staff and accepting the China UnionPay credit card, there are still contrasts. China engenders a “natural distrust” of overeager sales associates and many of the rich guard their privacy carefully – meaning that the cosy relationship Western luxury brands try to initiate with their most affluent customers is not a viable route.

Furthermore, as the desire for more flashy means of demonstrating their wealth recedes, there are many Chinese millionaires who are now interested in the provenance of their goods – or rather, what justifies the high price tag attached to them.

As per previous posts on this blog around the Lambda / Theta distinction of luxury shoppers, these kinds of Chinese consumers could be classed as Lambda – who see the item’s value not in terms of price, but rather, in terms of craftsmanship.

Victor Luis, president of Coach’s international business comments of these shoppers: “They are interested in understanding the history of the product, how it’s made, the quality, how to take care of the leather. ”

Men's luxury lifestyle emporium Heartless

 “In Asia, the development of men’s wear is extremely rapid, and in China we expect an organic growth close to 20 per cent for most of the European luxury names,” says Thomas Mesmin, a luxury goods analyst at CA Cheuvreux.

But it’s not just emerging markets that are seeing the of explosion of the luxury men’s market. Globally speaking, theUSbrand Coach has seen its men’s business double over the last year, and eventually men’s sales are expected to make up 15% or more of their total sales.

Hermes reports similarly spectacular expansion in its men’s categories. Meanwhile, major retailers and department stores are making plans to create exclusive areas for men’s luxury accessories and footwear – including Harrods and French retailer Printemps.

Alexis Morout, COO of footwear designer Christian Louboutin, has similarly positive projections for the future growth of their men’s business, commenting: “The men’s business represents today less than 5 per cent of our overall business, but could easily become 15 to 20 per cent in the near future.”

The Bain & Company study also reported that the luxury market continues to perform strongly in all categories, with apparel experiencing 8% growth in 2011, driven by both menswear (9%) and womenswear (7%).

With plans to trial men’s only concept stores by Gucci and Bottega Veneta in China, it will be interesting to see if this is a long-term evolution in consumers’ buying behaviour or if it remains a buying trend more exclusive to emerging markets.

Customer service is a key brand attribute that was cited by 47% of correspondents – and interestingly, one of the most important to Chinese consumers who cite it as a one of the main considerations. However, it’s also one that US consumers feel has deteriorated in recent years (34%,) alongside craftsmanship (17%.)

In China, however, satisfaction levels remain high. In the world’s most rapidly growing luxury market, 63% of affluent consumers say that customer service has improved and the vast majority applaud higher quality, craftsmanship and design.

Previously on this blog, entries have explored the success of those brands that tap into their customers’ emotions, providing a positive experience and remaining relevant to their contemporary customer through multichannel platforms such as social media.

At Janus Thinking, consumers are characterized into two different groups – or world views – Lambda and Theta, which explain how our different personality types influence our choice and perception of luxury.

The Lambda personality will see an item’s value not in terms of price, but rather, in terms of craftsmanship. If the item has taken a long time to make, is unique or has a story behind the item’s creation then it is more likely to be valued by a Lambda. On the other hand, if the item is attractive, and something that’s likely to establish them within their preferred social class, it will be valued by a Theta.

While the luxury industry identifies what attributes customers value in their goods, it is a good time for brands and retailers to understand how consumers’ core differences can assign different values to luxury items.

British success story Burberry hand-makes its trench coasts in Castleford, Yorkshire. Pringle, the Scottish knitwear retailer, creates its goods in a factory in Hawick, Scotland. And it’s not just UK brands that are sourcing and manufacturing in the British Isles – even the European and American fashion houses such as Chanel, Prada and Ralph Lauren manufacture their own cashmere, tweeds and shoes in the UK.

As provenance becomes less of a marketing term and more of an intrinsic demand for affluent consumers, the appeal of manufacture in the UK becomes obvious. Buying a British-made product is seen as akin to buying a quality investment piece, with lasting appeal.

Says James Eden, managing director of English outerwear brand Cooper & Stollbrand: “People want more understated, credible garments that are steeped in authenticity.”

Sustainability is also a key factor of “buying British.” There are no ethical concerns for either manufacturers or consumers around UK labour laws as with lesser economically developed countries; all goods are created under EU labour directives. And of course, the amount fashion miles within the supply chain are significantly reduced compared to manufacture in the Far East.

There are a number of factors that influence consumers’ buying choices – at Janus Thinking, these consumers are separated into two categories; Lambda and Theta.

For a Lambda, the provenance of British goods would be the key attraction – knowing that they are purchasing a product with an impressive history embedded within it. For a Theta, the appeal would come from the high-end brand and the well-known cachet of “buying British” amongst their social group.

All of this would mean little without significant demand for products that are “Made in Britain;” however – Burberry’s recent financial results indicate that their appeal is not only widespread, but looks likely to continue.

Image courtesy of Luxos

The Asia-Pacific region cemented Richemont’s position as one of Europe’s most important luxury manufacturers, with results of €1.05 billion, 36% up from the previous year. However, it is not only the domestic Chinese market that is prompting such strong profits. Sales in Europe also rose 16% to €914 million as Chinese tourists are purchasing the group’s goods – with items such as Cartier jewellery and Jaeger-Le Coultre watches finding favour – whilst visiting European cities such as Paris, Rome and Geneva.

Bernard Fornas, chief executive of Richemont’s Cartier brand commented: “The number of Chinese tourists is growing… and will help to “cushion the landing” in case things get worse in Europe’s economy.” 

As previously discussed, South-East Asian demand for luxury looks set to continue. Sparkle Roll Trading Development, a distributor of luxury goods in China, has five boutiques in Beijing and Shanghai selling Richard Mille and Parmigiani watches – with the average Parmigiani watch costing around 68,000 Swiss francs ($71,882).

“Sales are really good at the moment. At one of our boutiques we sold 60 watches in one month,” commented Mr. Firth, Sparkle Roll’s Chinese Marketing Director. By comparison, their stores in Europe sell on average five or six watches a month.

The year 2012 – which in Chinese horoscopes is the Year of the Dragon – is also affecting luxury sales. Chinese New Year is on January 23, with the emblem of the dragon being symptomatic of wealth, royalty and nobility. To celebrate this, independent watchmaker Parmigiani has created a dragon clockwork automaton crafted of white gold, imperial green jade, rubies, sapphires and a diamond.

At Janus Thinking consumers are characterized into two different groups – or world views – of Lambda and Theta, which explain how different personality types influence our choice of luxury.

The Parmigiani automaton might appeal to Lambda consumers due to the level of its craftsmanship, its uniqueness, and the fact that it there is a meaningful story behind its creation – rather than because of its price.

Theta consumers, however, will be attracted to such an item as it is a one of a kind, high-end design, and its high price helps to establish them within their preferred social class. Thetas seek acceptance, and their purchases reflect that.

Priced at 3.5 million Swiss francs ($3.7 million,) regardless of whether Theta or Lambda, its purchaser will no doubt have a strong affinity with the symbolic dragon.

I read with interest about the latest instalment of luxury jeweller Tiffany’s digital campaign “What Makes Love True,” which has adopted a similar approach in terms of digital user interaction. However this campaign, based on the concept of the art of love and romance, invites users into a world charged with emotion, presented in a highly immersive digital environment.

The first part of the campaign incorporates brand and user created content – videos of consumers narrating tales of “true love,” an interactive map where consumers share locations where they have experienced romance, and additional filmed content. For the second part of the campaign, launching next week, consumers will be able to upload their own tangible examples of “true love” through a user-curated gallery.

I have written in the past on the importance of brands connecting to consumers’ emotions, and this is a very successful association for a brand that wants to position itself as having a major significance at “life-stage” events such as engagements and weddings – with that significance now firmly embedded through its own virtual environment.

Chris Ramey, president of Affluent Insights, Miami commented: “Selling product benefits is, today, a failed strategy. Tapping into your prospect’s deep-seated values and emotions is key.

“Tiffany understands this marketing evolution as well as anyone,” he said. “Emotive selling connects neurologically to consumers who are disinclined to buy more stuff.

“This is the new reality for selling luxury.”

The What Makes Love True microsite can be found at

http://www.whatmakeslovetrue.com.

True Love in Pictures by Tiffany & Co

Dichter was convinced that traditional analysis of consumers (at the time carried out through speculative and somewhat slapdash polling techniques) offered very little insight into buying psychology and presented a limited view of what makes consumers opt for one product over another.

Rather, by advocating in-depth psychoanalytical research in lengthy interviews, Dichter gathered that subconscious urges and socialized inhibitions are what affects consumers’ buying habits. Furthermore, Dichter understood that possessions are extensions of our own personalities, serving as “a kind of mirror, which reflects our own image.”

I have argued previously that luxury marketers must focus on the human characteristics that drive consumers. By a simple characterization of consumers into two personality types – Theta and Lambda, I created a dichotomy that allows marketers to better understand how consumers behave according to their values, unconscious motives, and desires.

The Theta personality seeks affiliation and control as an ultimate life purpose, so they seek acceptance to fit in within a desired group and use socially-derived understandings of product characteristics as a basis for their consumption.

Lambdas, on the other hand, seek achievement and uniqueness as an ultimate end goal, and so are more likely to interpret products based on their individual responses to the product, how it helps or prevents them to stand out, and how the product benchmarks against their regular consumptive patterns.

Today, in addition to the empirical analysis marketers carry out through geographic location, gender and income, new research and developments based on neuroscience show that Dichter’s insights are coming back into fashion.