An Open Letter to the Diamond Industry… It’s now or never to reform the industry…

Isaac Mostovicz writes...

At the ‘virtual’ centre of our industry, Martin Rappaport has reduced the prices on his price list across the board signalling the need for a major price-cut (perhaps 25-30%) across the market.

Industry insiders will argue that Martin’s prices are based on the nonexistent “New York market approximate high cash asking price.” While Martin is a market expert, his prices reflects baseless assumptions, not consumer reality.  They are hunches and beliefs in the market.  They are, ultimately, arbitrary.

Meanwhile the collapse they foretell is being artificially accelerated.  What Martin did to the future market for polished diamonds, BHP has done to today’s rough, offloading its stock at prices 30-50% below what used to be the market price just months ago…

For the diamond industry, the writing is been on the wall.  But then it always has been. The message was  clear: if we do not change course, we are heading for a crash. The longer we wait, the faster the downward spiral and the more painful this crash is going to be…

Those who know me can testify that this has been my mantra for the last ten years.  When my message finally appeared last year (see the abstract in this recent Gem and Gemmology), it was the product of several years of research…

My message to the industry a simple one: we have been living in a bubble.

As an  industry we never took the time to stand behind the counter, to speak to the diamond consumer and to listen to his or her needs, wants and aspirations.

Instead of listening, we have spent our time looking to educate the consumer.  But we forgot to educate ourselves! If we had cared for the consumer, we would have realised that they didn’t need or even care for our education. In fact our attempts at education have backfired — so we now see fewer and fewer diamond consumers in the shops.

As a direct consequence the diamond market has been in constant decline relative to other luxury goods. The current demise (although accelerated by a falling dollar and a credit crunch and barely propped up by far-Eastern demand) is not a temporary shock, but a long-term critical illness.

So, my dear friends and colleagues, it is time to wake up and realise what we have done to our industry with our 4Cs marketing pitch.  We have sowed doubt, not trust.

The DTC already admitted to this terrible failure three years ago. But instead of stopping this ‘ongoing malpractice’ — we intensified it, borrowing ideas from marketing literature without having the slightest idea what they meant.

Among those ideas was the call for branding. I pride myself to be personally trained by one of the world’s leading branding experts, Prof. Leslie de Chernatony of the Birmingham Business School. Leslie was diplomatic enough to call this branding drive “rubbish.”  I say ‘diplomatic’ the market shrank by about $5BN (in relative terms) due to these marketing iniquities, without even counting goods that went unsold.

Unrelated to this marketing shortcoming, and oblivious to actual level of demand, the marketplace kept raising prices without any justification in market demand.  To finance this increase in prices without a complementary increase in demand, those in the middle of the value-chain put their hands deeper into their pockets.  The more sophisticated ones even found ways to convince our generous bankers to finance this illusionary bonanza. Consequently, the market grew – but only on the back of increasing debt to the banks.

So will the present crisis really have any effect on the retail market? I doubt it.  And if it has, is only in the short term. Even with this unprecedented crisis, analysts predict that the luxury market will return to normal in 2009.  Luxury goods, but more especially diamonds are relatively inflexible to mainstream economic trends; demand for them neither brakes in a recession, nor accelerates in a boom.

Unfortunately, while this may be true for the larger luxury market, I fear this recovery simply won’t come to pass for the diamond market.  The relative value of the diamond market, or what will be left of it, will continue to decline at an even faster pace.

Now consider the debt, which finances these escalated and unjustified foundations.  When the diamond banks will have to finance the coming sights (De Beers’ sales of rough diamonds), on what basis are they going to estimate their risk? Are they going to finance the real trade prices of the rough, sending their customers to look for impossible extra credit, and thereby preventing them from purchasing their quota? If they do the collapse of the cash-hungry diamond producers is imminent.

Or, will they choose to honour their relationships, finance at inflated levels and take the risk of a wider meltdown.  Maybe the banks will just keep on nurturing the ailing industry without really helping healing it

Would this so bad?

After all, the diamond industry has lived on borrowed time (and money) for a decade.

But the fact is, cannot support such high levels of debt and does not have enough assets to guarantee payoff of all this debt, especially when these assets are in the form of overvalued diamonds. The industry is, de facto, bankrupt.

As long as this state of insolvency is not officially declared, there always a window of opportunity that might allow us to change course. This change must start with a new approach to marketing, led, and financed by the retailers. Once done properly, will prove far cheaper than the amount of money currently being thrown away on empty trade-branding and commoditisation, for naught.  Preparation for this recovery process must start immediately.  It’s now or never.

We face, I believe, the imminent collapse of the entire industry.  While many good people will get hurt, this is not so bad for the industry in the long-term.  After all, there is only one group who are able to pick up the pieces and rebuild the industry – us, the diamond people.

Personally, I would prefer not to wait for a phoenix rising from the ashes. We can still change course.  We must take our medicine and redirect our marketing to the self-esteem that our customers are crying out for.

Randy Pearson says of this article...

Pricing is the diamond industry has become an anomaly. And anomolies are unsustainable. It may be interesting to compare this to the computer industry. The “benchmark” there is $1500 to $2000 at the consumer level. From the time of Steve Jobs (Apple II) and original IBM PC to today the sweet spot in the hardware industry has been this consumer price range. Even though the computer today is exponentially more powerful than the early machines, the price remains about the same. For the diamond industry, this may actually hold true. If one studies the average consumer purchase of a diamond engagement ring I would seriously doubt that it would track along the same lines are the increase of rough we have seen over the past years – especially since SOC initiative. The industry has been hoodwinked by the perception of rising rough prices, into believing that consumer prices should also have risen.

The question you need to ask is:
“What has happened since 2002 that has made a diamond more appealing to a consumer? What has happened to make the diamond more precious in the view of the woman?”

Industry decisions to keep increasing the price of rough are artificial, and even though they have an obligation to their shareholders to maximize their returns, they have working, in collusion with the banks, to create a monster. When the dust settles, who has the money? DeBeers and the other rough miners got paid with real money. The industry absorbed diamonds at prices that were unsustainable and now the banks are sitting on potentially bad loans. Sounds just like the US housing subprime lending mess to me. You have builders, mortgage brokers, real estate agents etc. who all got paid. You have homes that were built and occupied. And you have a lot of folks who borrowed money and simply do not have the ability to repay. The parallels are obvious…

What happens now though is that the banks will not collect. The way diamonds are financed needs to change. People may find themselves in a position where they have to spend their own money to buy rough.

In many ways, this would be the most healthy thing possible for the industry as it would force “real market” pricing for rough. With the banks self-moved to the side, the prices would more reflect what a consumer was willing to pay at the counter. Then it is just a matter of calculation and if in the end it is better to buy diamond rough they will, and it is better to stuff that same money in a CD or some other investment tool, they will do that instead. This is real life after all!

Now that banks have a big decision to make. Should they continue with the same failed policies or should they manage prices to more realistic and sustainable levels. At some point this becomes purely political. Those underwriting the insurance will decide the outcome. My advice to them would be to refuse to finance the rough industry for 180 days. That amount of time will force change. Then they can decide who is willing to work at realistic prices and who wants to live on in fairyland…

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